Countertop & Casting Resin

About

Bar Top and Countertop Epoxy for Wood and Concrete A bar top epoxy has one job: pour out glass. Not a coating you can see brush marks in, not a finish that clouds in six months. A clear, level, deep looking surface that makes the wood grain underneath look better than it did dry. One Stop Epoxy stocks a 100% solids, 2 to 1 flood coat built for exactly that: commercial bar tops, live edge tables, countertop resurfacing, and custom furniture. VOC free, so it works in a home shop with the doors closed. Free shipping to the 48 contiguous states, and most orders ship out the same or next business day. What This Bar Top Epoxy Is For Commercial Bar Tops: Restaurant and bar surfaces that take glasses, elbows, and cleaning every night. Live Edge Tables and Furniture: Slab tables where the whole point is seeing the grain through glass. Countertop Resurfacing: Kitchen and bathroom counters going over what is already there. Woodworking and Art: Sealing and finishing custom pieces where clarity is the finish. The Seal Coat Rule If you take one thing from this page, take this. Almost every bubble in a finished bar top came from air that escaped the wood or concrete, not from mixing. Porous material outgasses. As the surface warms, air pushes up out of the pores and straight into your flood coat, and it cures there permanently. The fix is a thin seal coat first, brushed or squeegeed on at 30 to 40 square feet per gallon. It locks the air in the substrate where it belongs. Then your flood coat lays down over a sealed surface and releases what little air is left on its own. Skip the seal coat and you will be chasing bubbles with a torch and losing. This Is a Flood Coat, Not a Deep Pour Saying this plainly so nobody learns it the expensive way. This is a thin film flood coat with a hard limit of 1/8 inch per lift . Pour it thicker and it overheats. That is not a warning about finish quality, it is chemistry: the exotherm runs away, and you get yellowing, ripples, or cracks in a piece