Dry Dog Food

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Every food on this page is a complete diet, which means it has everything your dog needs and doesn't require anything mixing in. If you want a food to feed alongside something else, you're after biscuits and mixers instead. How to narrow this down The filters on the left will get you there faster than scrolling. Use them in this order. Lifestage first. A growing puppy and an eleven-year-old dog need genuinely different food, and this is the filter that removes the most products. There are dedicated puppy and senior pages if you'd rather start there. Then breed size, if your dog is at either end. Small breed recipes use a smaller kibble that little jaws can manage. Large breed recipes control the calcium and energy density that matters while a big dog is still growing. Then anything your vet has raised. The Veterinary Condition filter covers weight, joints, digestion, skin and urinary health. If your vet has prescribed a specific diet, buy that rather than something that looks similar. Grain free and hypoallergenic come last, not first. They matter enormously to some dogs and not at all to most. Working dog food and VAT Some dry food is sold VAT-free for working dogs, which makes it noticeably cheaper per bag. The Working filter shows you which. It's only legitimate if your dog genuinely works, which means gundogs, farm dogs, sheepdogs and similar. A very energetic pet isn't a working dog, however much ground they cover on a walk. The mistake we see most Buying a better food and feeding the same amount as the old one. Richer food is more calorie-dense, so the correct portion is smaller. Weigh it out against the bag's own guide for the first fortnight and adjust from there. A mid-range food fed properly beats an expensive one fed by eye. When not to change food at all If your dog is well, holding a steady weight, with a decent coat and firm stools, the food is working. There's no nutritional reason to upgrade, and switching for its own sake usually just means a fortni

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