Blue Cheese

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Blue cheese is a spectrum, not a dare. On the gentle end there's Cambozola Black Label, essentially a triple-cream brie with a whisper of blue, and Gorgonzola dolce, sweet enough to spoon. The middle is where the classics live: Fourme d'Ambert, one of France's oldest cheeses; Stilton from Colston Bassett, fudgy and rich; and its orange cousin, Shropshire Blue. At full volume: Roquefort. We usually carry it from more than one house (Papillon, Gabriel Coulet), sheep's milk wheels ripened in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, where penicillium roqueforti does its work the way it has for centuries. The new world holds its own here too. Rogue Creamery's Caveman Blue out of Oregon, Roaring Forties from an island off Tasmania, Shaft's aged right here in California. Blues want sweetness next to them: dessert wine, honey, a ripe pear. Cut fresh in Beverly Hills and shipped cold to 48 states.