French Cheese

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The French wall is the deepest section of our counter, and honestly it’s not close. Brie de Meaux from Île-de-France. Époisses from Burgundy, including wheels from affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier. Comté aged 12 and 24 months in the Jura — 24 is right in the sweet spot, still supple but full of those crunchy little crystals. And Roquefort from the Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, where houses like Papillon and Gabriel Coulet still ripen sheep’s milk wheels the way they have for generations. From the Basque Country there’s Ossau-Iraty and Abbaye de Belloc, a sheep’s milk tomme made by Benedictine monks. From the Loire, the little goat cheeses — Crottin, Mothais sur Feuille, ash-dusted Valençay — that taste gently of the cave they were aged in, in the best way. And yes, French feta — sheep’s milk, briny, a little gentler than the Greek style. A lot of these carry AOP names, which means the recipe, the region, and often the breed are protected by law. Building a board? One soft, one alpine, one blue — that’s a French cheese course in three cuts. Cut to order in Beverly Hills and shipped cold to 48 states.

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