Goat Cheese & Chèvre

关于

Goat cheese covers a lot more ground than the crumbles on a salad. The Loire Valley sets the standard: Jacquin's Crottin, which we carry both fresh and aged (watching one firm up and sharpen over a few weeks is half the fun), ash-dusted Valençay, the pyramid whose top was supposedly lopped off by Napoleon himself, Saint Maure, and Mothais sur Feuille, ripened on a chestnut leaf. These taste gently of the cave, lemony and lactic, getting denser and more peppery with age. Spain answers with Drunken Goat from Murcia, bathed in red wine, and Garrotxa from Catalonia, clean and hazelnutty under a gray rind. From the Pyrenees, Jean Faup's Bethmale is the buttery mountain take. The Americans hold their own: Cypress Grove's Humboldt Fog with its signature line of ash, and Capriole's O'Bannon out of Indiana, wrapped in bourbon-soaked chestnut leaves. Chèvre wants something crisp alongside: Sancerre, sauvignon blanc, or a cold cider. Cut to order in Beverly Hills and shipped cold to 48 states.